How to Reattach a Review Mirron to the Windshield of a 2002 S10 Blazer
The traffic seems unusually light this morning. In fact, y'all haven't seen another car to the rear for ten miles. Fourth dimension to make a lilliputian time.
But then there's a foreign dissonance following you. Sounds similar a siren. Hmmm. No lights behind you, and then where is that sound coming from?
It's coming from the police machine that'southward riding your tail. You didn't see information technology considering your glued-on rearview mirror isn't on the windshield. It's lying on the floor under the seat where your 4-year-sometime has hidden it after discovering he couldn't do chin-ups on it. Tell that one to the judge.
Reattachment
Luckily, gluing your rearview mirror dorsum on is ane of the easiest jobs for a Saturday mechanic. What you demand well-nigh is patience and a clean working surroundings. Warm weather helps, as well, but it isn't mandatory.
Start by running down to your local car parts shop and picking up a rearview-mirror adhesive kit. It'll come with a vial of superstrong glue and a vial of accelerant to help the glue cure very quickly. At that place are normally instructions on the back of the cardboard packaging, likewise, should you need some guidance. You lot'll likewise need a razor-blade-type scraper, a small Allen wrench that fits the lockscrew on your mirror's baseplate, a grease pencil or some masking record and, depending on your detail circumstances, a tape measure and a heat gun or hair dryer.
Ready?
Prepare to work outside with the windows open up, as the adhesive kit will probably incorporate acrylic acid, methacrylic ester and trichloroethylene, which you don't want to breathe in large quantities.
Because the adhesive cures faster in warm ambient temperatures, program on using the estrus gun or hair dryer to warm the drinking glass if you're forced to do this task on a cold solar day. But use common sense. Ice-cold glass will not capeesh being blasted by intense heat. Y'all'll near definitely scissure the windshield this way. To avert this, agree the oestrus gun or pilus dryer about 12 to xviii in. abroad from the glass and waft the warm air dorsum and forth to gradually increase the glass temperature. And make sure to scrape off the sometime glue earlier warming the drinking glass or y'all'll create a gooey mess. An alternative is to park the car facing the sun for a few hours before kickoff the job.
If the old mirror left behind an obvious corporeality of residual on the within of the glass, you lot won't need the tape measure out to locate the midpoint of the windshield. But if you, say, forgot to marker the spot earlier you cleaned the glass completely, simply mensurate halfway across the superlative of the window and well-nigh 3 to 4 in. down from the headliner, and that will be your new mounting point.
You can brainstorm the remounting process by marker the outside of the window with a grease pencil over the area where the old mucilage is. Or you can cordon off the area on the inside with masking tape. (Some sort of mark is useful should you go interrupted afterwards removing the former glue.) The latter is the neater way to work, merely leave adequate room around the work expanse for scraping and cleaning. Now, go at the old glue with your scraper. Once y'all're down to smooth glass again, wipe the spot down with isopropyl alcohol to go it squeaky clean. Do the aforementioned affair on the dorsum of the mirror baseplate so that you take clean metal to work with. Don't touch either surface once information technology'south cleaned or the oil that comes off your fingers volition contaminate it.
The acceleration phase
The accelerant (primer) vial will accept a double wall of plastic. The inside wall is designed to crack open up when y'all bend the tube. The outside wall simply flexes. This allows the accelerant to drench the felt tip of the vial without leaking out all over your hands. Apply the accelerant liberally to the mounting point on the glass. Information technology needs 5 minutes to dry out.
In the meantime, utilize your Allen wrench to undo the lockscrew and release the mirror from its baseplate. It'south much easier to gum the baseplate onto the windshield first and install the mirror later. Working with the whole assembly is besides bad-mannered.
One time the baseplate is free, broth up its flat mounting surface with the accelerant and let it dry, every bit well. Don't bear on either of the treated areas every bit they're now prepare to have the adhesive, which volition cure faster considering of the accelerant.
Agglutinative fourth dimension
At present y'all're set to apply the adhesive. Neatly goop upwardly the back of the baseplate and advisedly press it onto the glass. Squoosh it effectually just a footling chip to get good adhesion–and keep applying pressure level. Don't let go for at least 2 minutes while the adhesive begins to set up. And so allow it dry for at least some other 15 minutes. If it'south actually common cold out, a little warm air from the rut gun or hair dryer should speed up the curing process. Remember, xv minutes is a minimum. Information technology'southward all-time to let the adhesive cure equally long as information technology is convenient–fifty-fifty overnight–before reattaching the mirror to the baseplate and tightening the lockscrew.
If you're a neatnick, trim the excess mucilage effectually the baseplate with a pocketknife or ane of the corners of your scraper blade. Then reattach the mirror and readjust it for a safe rearward view.
Oh. And don't pull on the mirror to see how tightly it's mounted. With Murphy's Law always in issue, you just might rip it off the window again. Just get out the mirror be–and keep your child out of the front seat. The mirror will probably stay upwards there for the life of the automobile.
Apply a scraper or just a razor blade to remove the erstwhile gum. This volition be easier if the glass is cold–so do information technology before warming the windshield.
Applying accelerant to the mounting surface speeds the adhesive curing. Don't touch on the surface with your fingers.
Press on the baseplate firmly for at least 2 minutes to let the fresh agglutinative to start to set up on the glass.
How It Works: The Antiglare Mirror
Most cars and trucks come with a manually dimmable day/night prismatic rearview mirror. Y'all toggle a piddling lever from the day position to the dark position. And the mirror drinking glass is not apartment, simply rather beveled. The superlative edge is thicker than the bottom edge. Hither's how the twenty-four hour period/night function works.
In the day position, the prototype you see is reflected off the silvered surface on the dorsum face up of the mirror glass. The image is well-baked and bright, because the silver provides an almost full reflection (80%) of the object.
In the night position, the toggle mechanism tilts the mirror glass upward slightly. Now, the bright day image is deflected off the silvered surface and upward into the vehicle's headliner. And the forepart (plain glass) surface of the mirror takes over, providing a 5% reflective paradigm. Everything appears very dark, but you can all the same monitor traffic behind you.
Many carmakers offer an automatically dimming electrochromic rearview mirror that provides an infinite number of brightness levels. These darken automatically co-ordinate to ambience low-cal conditions and the amount of headlight glare. Sensors feed input to electronics that determine how much voltage to apply to a special gel sandwiched between thin layers of cogitating glass in the rear and clear glass up front. The more than glare nowadays, the more than voltage is applied, and the darker the gel becomes.
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Source: https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a87/1272426/